Monthly Archives: June 2011

Public talk: Keren Chiaroni and 18th century revolutionary fashion

Off with Their Heads! The 18th-Century French aristocracy meets Lady Gaga

Saturday 16 July 2011 Soundings Theatre, Level 2 Te Papa, Wellington

 2pm–3pm Free entry

Experience true Liberty, Equality, and Brotherhood, as applied to frocks, wigs, and shoes. Author Keren Chiaroni pays tribute to extreme fashion in revolutionary France. The drama of the time was heightened by infamous opulence, greed, jealousy, and the most bizarre wigs!

Keren is a senior lecturer in French at Victoria University. She has published on theatre, dance, and design for academic journals – and has recently written about Paris fashion shows for Lucire magazine. From 2010, she has been a researcher and regional editor for the Pacific in the World Scenography project. This is a three-volume publication covering design for performance from all over the world. The first volume will be launched at the 2011 Prague Quadrennial on Performance Space & Design.

Keren is currently researching links between fashion, art, and costume design with specific reference to Trelise Cooper’s 2011 designs for the NBR New Zealand Opera’s Xerxes by Handel, and Karen Walker’s 2011 designs for the Royal NZ Ballet’s Stravinsky Triple Bill season.

PLUS Frock, Wig, and Shoe Challenge

Come dressed to delight our judges, wearing the BEST frock, wig, and shoe combination. You could win a three-course dinner for two, with specially selected wine, at the Hippopotamus Restaurant, Museum Hotel Wellington.

Entrants must register on the day between 1pm and 1.30pm at Soundings Theatre, Level 2.

Australian Tapestry Workshop – call for entries


The Australian Tapestry Workshop is calling for applications for this year’s Kate Derum Award for Small Tapestries. The award is open to professional Australian and International artists.


1ST PRIZE: a non-acquisitive award of $5,000 AUD

EMERGING ARTIST’S AWARD:  a non-acquisitive award of $1,000 AUD

JUDGES: Professor Kay Lawrence AM Professor of Visual Art, University of South Australia and a member of the Board of Directors of the Australian Tapestry Workshop, Jason Smith, Director, Heide Museum of Modern Art.

Entries close for pre-selection: Friday 2 September 2011

The Kate Derum Award Exhibition: 20 October – 18 November 2011

ENTRY FORMS – please visit

For further information contact Sara Lindsay at

This award has been generously funded by the Tapestry Foundation of Australia

Diary it: Auckland Vintage Fair Sunday 28 August

 Auckland Vintage Textile Fair

Sunday 28 August  10am – 5pm, $5 entry fee 

 The annual Auckland Vintage Textile Fair will be held as usual at Alexandra Park Raceway, an     excellent venue with plenty of free parking.

Stall holders include  Gill Ward from Victorian Gilt and Yanny Split, Helene Roelants and Kim Smith.

The fair usually includes about 40 stalls and is truely a ‘ Vintage’ event – i.e. no reproductions.

It’s a great place to catch up with friends and there’s a cafe and an all important money machine.

New Zealand in Vogue – new exhibition at Te Papa

Horrockses cotton dress, c 1960. Collection of Te Papa.

On Friday 24 June a new exhibition opens in Te Papa’s Eyelight’s Gallery – New Zealand in Vogue (24 June 2011 – September 2012).

This exhibition draws its inspiration directly from the pages of Vogue New Zealand, a magazine which graced news stands from 1957 to 1968. It showcases garments from top New Zealand designers and manufacturers such as Emma Knuckey, El Jay and Siltex, and those made here under licence from the world’s leading fashion houses. As well as stylish suits and dresses reflecting the latest international trends, there are the accessories, essential to the well-dressed woman. The home sewer is here too, supported by Vogue in its pattern service, and advice on fabrics.
Each case is based on an actual  headline from Vogue New Zealand, including ‘Our Choice of Dior Copies’, ‘Unbeatable All Blacks, ‘The Way to Look in Wool’ and ‘Exciting News For Dressmakers’. Design-wise each case is conceived as a fashion spread.
The exhibition is curated by Claire Regnault, Senior Curator History, who will give a short floor talk on Friday 24 June, at 12.15pm. Please meet in the gallery space.

NOM*d: The Art of Fashion – exhibition and publication

Photo: Kevin Robertston

This winter the Eastern Southland Gallery in Gore is hosting the exhibition NOM*d: The Art of Fashion from 28 July – 2 September. If you can’t make it to Gore too see the exhibition,  you can try and get your hands on the accompanying catalogue which features an essay by Natalie Smith and Hilary Radner: “NOM*d: Conceptual Couture in Dunedin”, and meditations on NOM*d by Simone Drichel, Peter Leech, Robyn Notman, Peter Shand and Peter Stupples.

The publication is being sponsored by the Centre for Research on National Identity (CRNI) and the Department of History and Art History, University of Otago.

With only 500 copies printed, the catalogue will be in high demand, so order yours today via CRNI:

Website:      Email:

The Cutting Circle – Risk and Fashion Design at Massey University this July

The Cutting Circle is an international research initiative by leading fashion practitioners Timo Rissanen (Parsons), Julian Roberts (RCA) and Holly McQuillan (Massey) exploring new and innovative methods of cutting patterns in the context of risky, cutting edge sustainable fashion design practice, research and teaching.

As part of this project is a 3 day symposium on offer for 14-16 July 2011 at Massey University, College of Creative Arts, Wellington, New Zealand, featuring practical masterclasses, demonstrations and lectures exploring creative risk-taking for innovative garment design.

Participants will gain an understanding of the approaches, philosophies and techniques for: Subtraction Cutting, Zero Waste Fashion Design, and Drape for Fashion Design.

This course would appeal to anyone who has an interest in fashion/textiles and alternative design processes. Some understanding of basic sewing and/or pattern making process is required.

As well as a series of demonstrations and workshops, there are two public event (no sewing skills necessary!):

Public Lecture:Thursday 14/07: 7pm – 8pm in 10A02  

Julian Roberts (UK), Timo Rissanen (US/Aust/Finland) and Holly McQuillan (NZ) will discuss their ongoing research project The Cutting Circle.

Exhibition: Saturday 16/07: 5pm – 8pm in The Dressing Room

More information about this event can be found at

Venue: All events are held in the Museum Building (Block 10) in Massey University College of Creative Arts Wellington.

Update: Trans/national Clothing: Production and Consumption

Please find below some additional information on the Trans/national Clothing conference from one of the organisers, Dr Clare Rose.

‘We hope to attract researchers working on the history of ‘transnational’ garments – and their symbolism (kilts in England, for example) as well as on contemporary issues. The keynote speakers will be Alexandra Palmer, Hazel Clark, Karen Tranberg Hansen, and the journalist Lucy Siegle, and we are expecting delegates from across Europe and North America and some interesting side events including performance art. We welcome non-traditional presentations or interventions. Please contact Dr Clare Rose for further information.’


Trans/national Clothing: Production and Consumption

Bath Spa University, Bath, UK  Thursday 1st-Sunday 4th September 2011

A three-day conference, workshop and discussion group addressing issues in the production and consumption of transnational clothing in the WorldHeritage City, Bath.

Themes for discussion include, but are not limited to:

* Clothes produced in one country for consumers in another country (Top

Shop t-shirts)

* Clothes produced for local consumers but exported (retail, smuggling,


* Clothes that typify the culture of one country to consumers in another

country (African prints marketed to African-Americans)

* Clothes that, while produced locally, link the wearer to the culture of

another country (clothes made for colonialists in India; clothes worn by

British Muslims)

* Cultural fusion and bricolage (T-shirts with English slogans made for

Indian consumers)

* Appropriation of cultural symbols (Arab keffiyehs and Maori tattoos as

fashionable motifs)

* Regional and national fashions (Soviet fashion; Arabic fashion, Nordic

fashion, etc) and the significance of National Identity through dress.

Send submission of abstracts by July 1st and any further enquiries to Dr Jo Turney or Dr Clare Rose

Dunedin’s Caselberg Trust announces new Creative Connections residency

The Caselberg Trust announced today it would be funding a new Creative Connections residency at its cottage in Broad Bay, Dunedin. The residency, which will be offered on an annual basis for a period of between 3 and 6 months, is open to people residing in New Zealand, and will pay a stipend of $6000 to the successful applicant.

Applications for the 2012 Creative Connections residency open on Monday 6 June, and run through to Wednesday 31 August. The Trust is looking specifically for projects that reach out and make links across a variety of creative media, professional disciplines, and/or communities relevant to the planned project.

Caselberg Trust Chairperson, Dr Janet Downs said “The Creative Connections residency is a major step forward for us, and we are very excited to be able to make this announcement today.”

Dr Downs added “The emphasis on encouraging interesting synergies between creative media is important to the Caselberg Trust, and something we now have a bit of a reputation for. I suppose our new Creative Connections residency is the logical next step for us, and I can’t wait to see what the interesting projects ideas we receive”.

The Trust welcomes applications for Creative Connections from people of any background i.e. arts or non arts. However, applicants must be able to demonstrate their ability to engage in a creative project and processes, to collaborate effectively with creative media, and with communities relevant to their identified project.

The Caselberg Trust purchased the Broad Bay, Dunedin home of the late John and Anna Caselberg in 2006, with the aim of hosting creative residencies in the house. Since inception, the Trust has held a variety of creative projects and events, as well as hosting a number of well-known New Zealand writers and artists at the cottage. In May 2011 the Trust announced it was hosting 2 Christchurch writers, whose homes had been destroyed by the February 2011 earthquake.

Creative Connections will be the first residency where the Trust has been able to pay the successful applicant a stipend, and the residency will be unique within New Zealand, as it will be open to people from a wide variety of creative arts and non-arts backgrounds.

Application form and Information to Applicants can be downloaded from the Trust website .

Textile and Design Laboratory (AUT) – May news

New intarsia knitting machine for T+DL

The Textile and Design Lab took delivery of its latest Shima Seiki knitting machine earlier this month. In order to significantly increase the lab’s knit design capabilities, it was decided to invest in a 14 gauge SIG intarsia machine, the first of its kind to be commissioned in New Zealand. The intarsia capability will also support the lab’s R&D work in the area of smart materials using conductive yarns. Senior Technician, Gordon Fraser, will be spending 2 weeks at Shima’s training centre in Wakayama, Japan in July to learn the programming techniques specific to the new machine.

The lab’s new Shima SIG intarsia knitting machine

Get to know the basics

If you or your staff are struggling with textile terms and processing methods used in the industry, they will undoubtedly benefit from our 3 day Fibres to Fashion (Introduction to Textiles) short course being held at the AUT from the 6th-8th July. This fast paced course covers fibre properties, yarn production, knitting, weaving, textile coloration and printing, fabric quality, specifications and care labelling. The final day of the course is devoted to new digital technology being used in the industry.

Contact Textile and Design Lab manager, Peter Heslop, on for a course information sheet. Discounts are available for group bookings of four and over from one organisation and for full time students.

Funding for development of digitally printed merino

The Textile and Design Lab has been awarded $5,000 from AUT Enterprises Limited to help further develop digitally printed merino wool fabrics and garments. Former AgResearch dyeing expert, Les Duckmanton, is working with T+DL staff to help formulate both pre treatment and wet finishing processes that will optimise the uptake of the reactive dyes used in the printing process. Results attained so far have shown a significant improvement in terms of dye retention and the prevention of residual dye from re depositing onto lighter parts of the fabric during wet finishing. The project is expected to be completed by the end of June.

Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia visits T+DL

Recently appointed Textile, Clothing and Footwear (TCF) Hub Project Manager, Craig Driscoll, of the TFIA visited the Textile and Design Lab in late April to take a first-hand look at the technology that the lab has available for its students, researchers and commercial partners, and to gain an understanding of how the lab interacts with local industry. The Australian Textile and Fashion Hub has been funded by AusIndustry to support the commercialisation of ideas and innovations in the TCF industry, as well as to implement workplace learning programs and develop collaborative SME clusters. Mr Driscoll has been engaged to drive the next stage of development for the Hub, consulting with current consortium members to identify and implement specific projects.

Forthcoming short courses

Knitwear Design 1 Day course Sat 2nd July 2011

Fibres to Fashion (Introduction to Textiles) 3 Day course Wed 6th – Fri 8th July 2011

Photoshop Basics 2 Day course Thu 14th – Fri 15th July 2011 Evening course starting Wed 20th July 2011

Photoshop Intermediate for Textile Design 2 Day course Mon 4th – Tue 5th July 2011

Group and student discounts apply to all our short course registration fees. Visit the ‘Courses’ page at or email for full details.

Miranda Brown Design Competition

What do you want to wear?

Miranda Brown of Conscious Cloth is  running a design competition where you get to design a look for their next range! Miranda invites you to:

‘Send in your sketches or a favourite garment that you would love to have in your wardrobe.We invite designs made for Knit fabric that are flattering to wear and make women feel great and look hot! The winner gets $1000 worth of MB apparel and your garment included in our next range with your name. 2nd and 3rd place get a garment valued at $300.’

Send entries or garments to:

40 Nottingham St Westmere, Auckland.

Include all your details: Name, email address, phone number and inspiration.

If you send garments they shall be returned.

Thankyou and we look forward to co-creating with you!

Dates: Open June 8th – August 8th


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